Tips From The Experts is a regular feature of the monthly e-newsletter Love Notes. Read some of the stories below.

Sommelier, There’s Some Leather in My Wine
Wine Shows Reveal Hidden Gems
Behind the Cellar Door
Biodynamics, Viticulture and Clownfish Wines
Winter Reds
Sacre Bleur, We Could Have Been French!
Cane Cut Riesling A Cut Above
Cellaring Wine

Sommelier, There’s Some Leather in My Wine
Reading wine tasting notes can sometimes be like learning another language.  While some aroma descriptions sound very attractive – such as berry, tropical fruits, chocolate and citrus – other descriptors could prompt the uninitiated to pour the glass down the sink.  Leather, forest floor, tobacco and barnyard are somewhat off-putting when choosing a wine.
Wine is defined by its aromas.  These descriptors are aroma characteristics that can be identified in certain wines.  Some are natural characteristics specific to the grape variety, some are defined by the soils of the region or at what stage the grapes are picked, and some are created through manipulation in the winery through the winemaking processes.
By understanding the characteristics written on the bottle’s label, you can make a more informed decision when selecting a wine that will suit your tastes.
Swirl your glass so the wine comes up the glass.  The aromas come off the surface area of the wine.  By swirling the wine, you are increasing the surface area and increasing the intensity of the aromas.  Put your nose in the glass – don’t be shy, stick it right in and take a deep sniff.
See if you can pick two or three aromas and then have a mouthful.  Keep it in your mouth for a few seconds, then swallow or spit.  Does the wine cause you to pucker your lips (high in tannins and dry), does it fill your mouth with plenty of flavour (good balance), does it have a slight bitterness at the back of your throat (could be slightly flawed), is there an overly sweet or ‘hot’ sensation (indicates a high alcohol wine), does it leave you with a different aftertaste (if so, the wine has good length)?
Learning to identify aromas is a practiced skill so don’t be disappointed if you can’t pick the individuals aromas straight away.  Luckily, practice makes perfect so open that next bottle and sniff away.

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Wine Shows Reveal Hidden Gems
It seems like the ultimate job for wine lovers – tasting wine for a living.  Get flown around the country, sometimes internationally, to drink wine all day.  But how would you go tasting 370 wines in two days?
That was the job of the Margaret River Wine Show Judges last November.  The Wine Show attracted 740 entries, a record number, from within the Margaret River wine region.
The aim of any Wine Show is to recognise and award medals to outstanding wines, while providing a snapshot of how a particular variety or region is doing.  With over 60 per cent of last year’s wines picking up a medal, Margaret River’s wine producers are doing very well.
Medals are awarded on a points system.  Each Judge gives a rating out of 20, with three combining their scores for a total score out of 60.  Wines receiving 55.5 points or more pick up Gold, 51 to 55 receive Silver and 46.5 to 50.5 score Bronze.  The best of all the Gold medal winners gets a trophy.  Recent laws tightening up on the use of medal stickers on wine bottles means you can be assured that when purchasing a bottle of wine displaying an award, it is a quality drop.
Look out for these Macquarie 2007 Margaret River Wine Show trophy winners.

Best Wine of Show: Houghton Gladstones Margaret River 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Best Cabernet Sauvignon: Houghton Gladstones Margaret River 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Best Chardonnay: Devil's Lair 2006 Chardonnay
Best Museum Wine: Evans & Tate 2004 The Reserve Chardonnay
Best Shiraz: Brookland Valley 2006 Verse 1 Shiraz
Best Cabernet Sauvignon Predominate Blend: Brookland Valley 2004 Cabernet Merlot
Best Semillon: Juniper Estate 2006 Semillon
Best Semillon/ Sauvignon Blanc: Vasse Felix 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Semillon

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Behind the Cellar Door
“Would you like to taste our wines?”
If that question has you running nervously for the door, you’re not alone.  People can find visiting cellar doors a daunting experience but it should be the exact opposite.  Cellar doors are the perfect places to sample a wine before buying, to learn about wine varieties and styles, and how the wine is made.
Ian Smith runs his family’s cellar door at Adinfern Estate, where he is happy to guide people through the tasting experience.
“Don’t be afraid to admit you are not a wine connoisseur,’’ Ian said.  “Everyone is a connoisseur of his or her own palate, so don’t let anyone tell you what you should be drinking. You know what you like.”
Here are some tips to have you looking like a wine professional next time you’re in Margaret River
· Use comments like “This is not the style I normally drink” instead of “That’s disgusting”.
· To taste a wine properly, take a decent mouthful and swirl around your mouth for a few seconds before swallowing or spitting.
· Spitting is encouraged in cellar doors.
· Spitting is even more encouraged if you are the driver.  A few 20ml tastes won’t put you over the limit but a day of tasting will.  Take a wine tour if you don’t want the driver to miss out.
· Take your time and have water between to cleanse your palate.
· Ask questions – not just about the wine but the winery and region.
· While its great for the winery if you buy a bottle, don’t feel obliged or guilty if you don’t.

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Biodynamics, Viticulture and Clownfish Wines
Biodynamics is a way of farming that allows you to get away from the use of pesticides, herbicides, fungicides and water soluble chemical fertilizers.  Instead, these are substituted with specially prepared preparations made from animal manures and selected plant materials.  They are applied with the knowledge of the subtle, yet profound, effects the sun, moon and planets have on the biodynamics of our soils, atmosphere and personal wellbeing. If the applications are timed right, they work in conjunction with the natural rhythms of biological life in the soils, balancing the environment both above and below the ground.
A vineyard should show the unique characteristics of the natural elements that make up the ‘terroir’ of the individual site.  This means a Cabernet wine made in Margaret River will be different from a French Cabernet because of the influence of the soil type and other environmental aspects.  This is why Cowaramup Wines decided four years ago to use biodynamic principles in its Ellensbrook vineyard, so the wine produced for the Clownfish label expresses the true individuality of the site and region.
Cowaramup Wines have a long term commitment to this natural practice and they can confirm ‘It’s a much nicer way to farm.”  For more information on the Clownfish range of wines, log onto www.cowaramupwines.com.au  

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Winter Reds
Outside, the night is stormy with a chill in the air.  Inside, the fire is roaring, filling the room with a warm glow.  The aroma of dinner cooking in the oven tantalises the taste buds and your thoughts turn red – specifically which red you want to open. Let’s take a look at what Margaret River can offer to compliment a perfect night in.
Cabernet Sauvignon is King in Margaret River.  The soils and climate are perfect growing conditions for this small berry grape with its thick skin.  The flavours in Cabernets tend to be black and red currant, blackberry and cassis with occasional hints of mint and chocolate.  Cabernet originally hails from Bordeaux, France.
Cabernet tends to be very tannic (the acid that leaves the mouth dry) so it is often blended with Merlot.  Merlot is a smooth, mellow wine with low acidity and flavours of plum, black cherry, berry and chocolate.  It is easy to drink and easy to love and is the darling of the red wines, perhaps a fitting red Queen for Cabernet?  Merlot is also from Bordeaux.
Prince Shiraz is a spicy wine that is snapping at the King’s heels.  Also known as Syrah, Shiraz has dark plums, raspberries, blackcurrent and spicy pepper characteristics – the cooler the climate, the spicier it becomes.  It is now Australia’s leading wine vareity and Margaret River has some of the best.  Shiraz is classic from Rhone Valley of France.
Cabernet Franc was once described as the ‘somewhat leaner sister of Cabernet Sauvignon’.  It is not quite as full-bodied, and has fewer tannins and less acid and can more aromatic. It’s spicy, warm aromas can include blackberry and raspberry.  While it usually prefers to be included in a blend, a few wineries give this grape centre stage in the family portrait.
It’s not just the French that have immigrated successfully to Margaret River.  The Italian Sangiovese can be found in quite a few vineyards.  Literally translated as ‘blood of love’, this romantic Italian can be anything you want it to be from a fresh, light, young wine to a hearty, full-bodied red and it is just waiting to seduce.
With its warm weather and surf, Margaret River should suit hearty Zinfandel, who calls California home.  Usually high in alcohol (and what brash young surfer isn’t?), Zinfandel is a jammy red full of sweet berry flavours and tannins – one wine critic described a Margaret River Zinfandel as ‘hot’ – those surfer images come to mind again – so it’s a perfect guest for your next BBQ.
In the multicultural mix, Spanish Tempranillo demands to hang around.  A medium-bodied wine that cellars well, Tempranillo is a dark, almost black grape that has sweet spice, leather and a dusty earth perfume combined with warm red fruits like dark savoury cherry and juicy and soft, blood plum fruit.  If you want to see a great example of this dark Spanish beauty, try the Stella Bella 2003 Tempranillo which won Gold at the World International Tempranillo Competition 2006.

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Sacre Bleur, We Could Have Been French!
A look at some of Margaret River winery and label names throws up quite a few French references – even Margaret River’s first established winery Vasse Felix is named after a drowned French seaman.  So what is the connection?
It is common knowledge the pioneering families of Bussells and Molloys made the first attempt to settle Augusta.  But their move into the region was sparked by the likelihood of French settlement.
Captain Nicholas Baudin left France on the Geographe in 1800 while Captain Hamelin sailed alongside in the Naturaliste with a team of scientists and artists to chart the South West coastline and record its flora and fauna.  Poor drowned Vasse was employed on the Naturaliste.  Baudin met up with Matthews Flinders in 1802 at Encounter Bay, and the English soon staked their claim on WA.
But Margaret River retains its links to the French.  Freycinet Bay was named after Lieutenant Lewis de Freycinet, who arrived soon after Baudin.  Hamelin Bay is now more famous for its visiting stingrays than its namesake Captain.  Both ships names have been retained at Cape Naturaliste and Geographe Bay.
Woodside Valley Estate pays tribute to the Captain with the Baudin Collection.  Other French connections include Rosily Vineyard, named in honour of Comte Francois de Rosily, a navigator who visited the region in 1772. Cape Mentelle is also a cape near Prevelly, named after geographer Edmunde and his cartographer brother Francois-Simon Mentelle.
Who knows, had the French settled the region perhaps our wine industry would be 240 years old instead of only 40.

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Cane Cut Riesling A Cut Above
Riesling probably isn’t the first grape variety to spring to mind when one thinks of Margaret River, but it wasn’t always this way. Prior to the arrival of Chardonnay, Riesling was one of the few varieties available locally.
The Juniper Estate vineyard has a block of dry grown Riesling planted in 1973, from which they have been making Cane Cut Riesling or, as they like to call it, CCR since 2000.
The fruit bearing canes are cut when the flavours in the grapes were at their optimum. The grapes were then left out hanging on the vines to dehydrate for about 4 weeks, thus concentrating the sugar, acid and flavour.
“Margaret River is too windy to allow botrytis to develop consistently in a predictable manner from year to year, so I thought by cutting the canes we can achieve the sugar, acidity and concentration needed for a dessert style wine,” Juniper winemaker Mark Messenger said.
”I usually only make about 4 barrels of this wine, as the demand for dessert wines is not as strong as for Margaret River Chardonnay or Semillon Sauvignon Blanc!”
It’s not a common wine style, and with the exception of Mt Horrocks Cane Cut Riesling from Clare in South Australia, Mark couldn’t think of many other producers.
It is something different to look out for when you’re next in Margaret River or see www.juniperestate.com.au for more information.

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Cellaring Wine
Whether it’s an underground vault or your linen cupboard, there are some standard criteria to storing your wines to last.  Correct cellaring will ensure your wines improve with age, if you can leave them alone for long enough.
The main thing is to have a constant temperature.  Having your wine rack situated under your reverse cycle system is not ideal.  But having them in a storage area that stays between 14 – 18 degrees C is perfect. Fluctuations in temperature may cause the cork to expand and contract, loosening the cork and causing wine to seep.
Wine is not a sunbather – keep them out of direct sunshine and store them on their side.  With screwcaps this is not as important but with cork, it’s important to keep the cork moist so it doesn’t dry out and crumble when you open it.
Wine stored in poor conditions are likely to mature too quickly and could oxidize.
Remember not all wines are made to be cellared.  Many white styles are made to drink while young and fresh, rosés are best during their first year and some red styles are made to last only 2 – 3 years.  Winemakers are starting to indicate cellaring potential on the label but if in doubt, ask at a liquor store or cellar door.
While many people cellar to improve the wine through age, correct cellaring for investment can pay dividends.  Consider the savvy wine lovers who bought a 1982 Château Lafite or Mouton-Rothschild for $400.  Both are now worth $10,000 and that is not even close to the most expensive wine in the world.